Why Lighting Technique Matters

A cigar's foot contains a cross-section of filler leaves — multiple primings and tobacco types bundled together. For the cigar to burn evenly across the entire foot, every portion of that cross-section needs to reach ignition temperature at approximately the same time. An uneven light — where one section ignites first while others remain cool — produces a burn line that runs at an angle rather than straight across the foot.

This is called canoeing: the cigar burns along one side faster than the other, following the path of the initial hot spot. Canoeing can often be corrected, but it rarely self-corrects, and it affects flavor delivery for as long as it persists. Correct lighting technique — patient toasting of the entire foot before drawing — prevents canoeing from starting.

Lighter Selection

A butane torch lighter is the practical default. It produces a consistent, wind-resistant flame at sufficient temperature to toast a cigar foot efficiently. Single or double flame torches both work — double flame covers larger ring gauges more quickly.

Quality soft-flame butane lighters (not disposable lighters) are an alternative for indoor use. They produce a lower-temperature flame that requires more time and patience but delivers a clean light. Long wooden matches — cedar matches specifically — are the traditional alternative. Clean-burning, no butane, and they impart a subtle cedar note to the foot. Require good technique and are essentially unusable in wind.

Avoid standard disposable lighters (poor butane quality, visible yellow flame, potential for off-flavors), candles (paraffin wax can introduce flavor contamination), and gas stoves.

For a comprehensive comparison of torch vs soft flame lighters and specific product guidance, see Torch Lighters vs Soft Flame Lighters.

The Toasting Stage

Toasting primes the foot before you draw through the cigar. It heats the tobacco across the entire foot evenly, beginning the combustion process before the draw introduces airflow.

  1. Hold the cigar at a 45-degree angle with the foot pointing slightly downward, toward the flame.
  2. Hold the torch flame approximately 1–2 centimeters from the foot — close enough for the heat to reach the tobacco, but not touching it directly. Direct torch-to-tobacco contact scorches before it ignites.
  3. Rotate the cigar slowly while moving the flame in a circular pattern around the perimeter of the foot. You are heating the full circumference, not just the center.
  4. Continue until the entire foot begins to darken and a subtle, even glow appears across the surface. This typically takes 10–20 seconds. You may see a faint plume of smoke rising from the foot — this is normal.
  5. Blow gently on the foot. A properly toasted foot will glow evenly orange across the entire surface when you blow on it. If one section is dark but not glowing, it needs more heat.
After toasting and before drawing, blow gently on the foot and look at the glow. An evenly distributed orange glow across the full foot surface means the toast is complete and even. Sections that don't glow are cold spots that will cause burn problems — give them more heat before proceeding.

The Ignition Stage

With the foot fully toasted, you draw through the cigar to bring it to full ignition.

  1. Bring the cigar to your lips. Tilt it at approximately 45 degrees with the lit foot pointing slightly downward or level — not straight up, which concentrates heat and can cause an uneven burn.
  2. Bring the flame close to the foot again — still not touching — and begin a slow, steady draw. As you draw, move the flame around the perimeter of the foot in a circular motion.
  3. Draw slowly. The draw should take 3–5 seconds. Rapid puffing during lighting generates excess heat that scorches the filler and bakes in bitterness.
  4. After 2–3 draws with the flame, remove the flame and continue drawing. The cigar should now be fully lit.
  5. Inspect the foot. Blow gently again to check for even glow. If one section is clearly darker and not glowing, touch the flame to that area briefly while drawing.

Touching Up an Uneven Light

Even with good technique, you may occasionally find one section of the foot has not fully ignited. Hold the lighter flame directly to the cold section — this time, touching or very nearly touching the tobacco — while drawing slowly. The combination of direct heat and draw airflow will ignite the stubborn section. Check the glow again after.

Relighting During the Smoke

If you set a cigar down for more than a few minutes, it will go out. Relighting a partially smoked cigar requires clearing the stale smoke first.

  1. Blow gently through the head of the cigar to push stale air and smoke out through the foot.
  2. Gently knock away any built-up ash near the foot by pressing the ash against the ashtray rim to break it cleanly — don't tap the cigar itself.
  3. Toast the foot again as you did initially — a full toasting rotation before drawing. The previously smoked filler relights more readily than a fresh foot, so this stage is briefer.
  4. Draw slowly to full ignition and inspect the glow.
A cigar that has been out for more than 20–30 minutes develops stale, ammonia-tinged smoke in the filler. Even a perfect relight will produce noticeably harsher, more bitter flavor for the first several draws as this clears. This is normal and will pass within a few minutes of resumed smoking.

Wind and Environment

Outdoor lighting in wind requires adjustment. Wind carries heat away from the foot faster than the lighter can deliver it, making it difficult to toast evenly.

  • Use your cupped hand as a windbreak around the foot during toasting. The hand blocks ambient airflow without affecting the lighter flame.
  • Position yourself with your back to the wind during lighting.
  • Torch lighters are significantly more wind-resistant than soft flame. If you smoke outdoors regularly, a torch is essentially required.
  • In very high wind, find a sheltered spot for lighting even if you plan to smoke in the open.